Now reading: Homeland
Persiahaus

Hypersaline lake; national park and Ramsar wetland

Lake Urmia

دریاچه ارومیه

A great salt lake of flamingos and islands, fighting to survive

Lake Urmia is a vast salt lake in north-western Iran, lying between the provinces of West and East Azerbaijan; the city of Urmia stands near its western shore. At its fullest it was the largest lake in the Middle East and one of the largest salt lakes in the world, with dozens of islands scattered across its shallow water. It is one of the defining landscapes of Iranian Azerbaijan, and Azerbaijanis, Kurds and Assyrians all live around its shores.

The lake has no outlet, so the rivers that feed it leave their salts behind as the water evaporates, making it far saltier than the sea. Few creatures can live in it, but one, a tiny brine shrimp, Artemia urmiana, thrives in vast numbers and feeds the flocks of flamingos, pelicans and other birds that breed and rest on the lake and its islands. The lake and its islands are a national park, and its wetlands are protected under the Ramsar Convention.

From the 1990s the lake began to shrink dramatically. Between its high point in 1995 and the mid-2010s, its level fell by more than seven metres and it lost most of its surface area, leaving salt flats and stranded jetties. Drought, the damming of its rivers and heavy use of water for farming all played a part, and scientists debate their relative weight. Winds carrying salt from the exposed lakebed became a fear for the region's farms and health.

Saving the lake became a national cause, and wetter years and restoration efforts since 2019 have brought some water back, though its level rises and falls with the seasons. Its future remains uncertain, and for many in the region it is a symbol of Iran's wider struggle with water.

Lake Urmia through time

Iranian history

1925–2026

The Pahlavi century and afterدوران پهلوی و پس از آن

Two Pahlavi shahs built railways, universities and a centralised state, while poets, novelists and film-makers created a new Persian culture. The era ended with the revolution of 1979.

  • c. 1995 Lake reaches its modern high-water mark

More in West Azerbaijanآذربایجان غربی

Stories from the regionداستان‌ها

A long-necked saz with a red bowl and saffron frets, the instrument of the ashiq minstrels, before the rows of brick domes and arches of the Tabriz bazaar, with Mount Sahand and a saffron sun on turquoise behind.

Turkic speech, an ancient Iranian province, and a nation of their own to the north

Azerbaijanis

Iran’s Azerbaijanis, who often call themselves *Türk*, speak a Turkic language in a land named after an Iranian satrap. North of the Aras, the Republic of Azerbaijan is a separate nation that defines itself.

A Newroz night in the Zagros: snow-capped blue peaks under a pale moon, small bonfires on the ridges, and a great fire beside a line of tiny figures with linked hands in the circle dance, the leader raising a red handkerchief.

Mountain people of four states and many dialects

Kurds

Kurds live across the Zagros and Taurus in Iran, Iraq, Turkey and Syria. In Iran they speak several Kurdish languages, keep several faiths, and light Newroz fires that every Iranian knows.

Dark mountains with small fires on their slopes and saffron rings of song rising from the highest peak under a white moon, inside a pointed arch

Kurmanji, Sorani and Southern Kurdish

Kurdish

Spoken across the mountains where Iran, Iraq, Turkey and Syria meet, and far beyond, Kurdish is a family of closely related varieties with its own literature, written in more than one alphabet.