Masuleh

Masuleh is a village built up the side of a steep valley in the forested mountains of Gilan, above the Caspian plain. It is thought to be around a thousand years old, though the present village was rebuilt more than once after floods and landslides. Its houses are laid out so closely on the slope that the roof of one row serves as the courtyard and path for the row above.

The buildings are of timber and stone, rendered in a yellowish clay that gives the village its warm colour against the green of the hills. Windows are framed with carved wooden shutters, and many houses have upper rooms with wide lattice windows looking down the valley. No cars can enter; visitors climb on stairways and terraces from level to level.

Masuleh has long lived from trade with the surrounding mountain communities, and from crafts such as knife-making. Today tourism dominates, especially in summer when Iranians come for the cool air and the mist that often fills the valley. The bazaar sells local kolucheh, a sweet filled pastry, alongside woollen socks knitted in the region. Come out of season to see the village as a village, with washing on the roofs and children running along them.