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Ossetian sanctuary, medieval in origin; restored 2016

Rekom

رکوم

A wooden sanctuary of the Ossetians in the forests of the Tsey gorge

Rekom is a wooden sanctuary standing in a clearing of fir and pine forest in the Tsey gorge, high in the mountains of North Ossetia–Alania in southern Russia, close to the border with South Ossetia, at an altitude of nearly two thousand metres. It is reached by a short climb on foot from the road through the valley, a few kilometres before the ski resort of Tsey, and it is one of the most revered holy places of the Ossetians.

The Ossetians speak an Iranian language and descend from the Alans, a people of the steppe related to the Sarmatians and Scythians, who settled in the central Caucasus in the early Middle Ages. Their traditional faith, still widely observed alongside Orthodox Christianity and Islam, honours a supreme god and a group of patron saints. Rekom is dedicated to Uastyrdzhi, the patron of men, travellers and warriors, whose name and form are linked with Saint George. By Ossetian tradition, women do not enter the sanctuary.

The sanctuary is a log building with a steep pitched roof, hung with the horns of wild goats and other offerings left by worshippers. It is thought to be medieval in origin and has been rebuilt more than once; a restoration completed in 2016 renewed the building in its traditional form. Ossetians come here to pray and to make offerings, and many visitors pause at Rekom on their way up the gorge to the glaciers above.

Rekom through time

Iranian history

1925–2026

The Pahlavi century and afterدوران پهلوی و پس از آن

Two Pahlavi shahs built railways, universities and a centralised state, while poets, novelists and film-makers created a new Persian culture. The era ended with the revolution of 1979.

  • 2016 Restoration of the sanctuary completed

More in North Ossetiaاوستیا

  • Dargavs

    A hillside necropolis of stone tomb houses

  • Mukhtarov Mosque

    A mosque of 1908 on the bank of the Terek, built by a Baku oil magnate

Stories from the regionداستان‌ها

Snow-capped Caucasus peaks under a blue halo, with a red cup between golden pies on a round three-legged table, inside a pointed arch

An Iranian language in the Caucasus

Ossetian

In the central Caucasus, far from the plateau, the Ossetians speak an Eastern Iranian language descended from the speech of the Alans and the Scythians, and keep the Nart sagas alive.

Masuleh, the stepped village of the Talysh mountains, its ochre houses with dark lattice windows climbing the forested slope in tiers so that each roof is the street of the house above, under a lapis sun on white.

The smaller communities, and the wider family

Talysh, Tats and other peoples

The Iranian world holds many more peoples than any list can name: Talysh and Tats in the north, Ossetians in the Caucasus, Pashtuns to the east, Georgians in Isfahan, Afro-Iranians on the south coast, and more.