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Waterfall in the Zagros, beside the Trans-Iranian Railway

Bisheh Waterfall

آبشار بیشه

A waterfall beside the Trans-Iranian Railway in the Zagros

The Bisheh waterfall pours down a green cliff in the Zagros mountains of Lorestan, between the cities of Dorud and Khorramabad, beside the village of Bisheh. Spring water spills from the top of the rock face in many separate strands, falling some forty or fifty metres through moss, ferns and hanging plants into the river below. In spring, when the snows melt, the falls are at their fullest and the whole cliff seems to be made of water.

What makes Bisheh unusual is how most visitors arrive: by train. The Trans-Iranian Railway, built in the 1930s to link the Caspian Sea with the Persian Gulf, runs through the deep gorges of the Zagros here, and Bisheh has its own small station just above the waterfall. The line through Lorestan is one of the most dramatic stretches of the whole railway, with tunnels and bridges threaded through the mountains, and in 2021 the Trans-Iranian Railway was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.

For many families from Lorestan and beyond, a trip to Bisheh is a day out by rail: they ride the train through the mountains, get off at the station, walk down to the falls, picnic among the oaks and walnut trees, and catch a train back. The village has guesthouses and small shops, and the river below the falls is popular for wading and paddling in summer.

The surrounding valley is cut deep into the mountains, with the river, the railway and the road all squeezed into its narrow floor, and it is a good introduction to the green, well-watered country of northern Lorestan.

Bisheh Waterfall through time

Iranian history

1925–2026

The Pahlavi century and afterدوران پهلوی و پس از آن

Two Pahlavi shahs built railways, universities and a centralised state, while poets, novelists and film-makers created a new Persian culture. The era ended with the revolution of 1979.

  • 1938 Trans-Iranian Railway completed
  • 2021 Trans-Iranian Railway inscribed by UNESCO

More in Lorestanلرستان

  • Falak-ol-Aflak

    The fortress on its rock above Khorramabad

  • Lake Gahar

    A turquoise lake in the heart of the Oshtorankuh range

  • Pol-e Kashkan

    A medieval brick-and-stone bridge across the Kashkan river

Stories from the regionداستان‌ها

A geometric Asiatic lion in profile with a dark mane, standing before a rising saffron sun with a raised sword, after the Lion and Sun emblem, on pomegranate red.

Zagros woodland and heraldry

The Asiatic lion and the Lion and Sun

Iran's lions disappeared in the 1940s, but for centuries a lion holding a sword beneath a rising sun stood for the Iranian state.

The round towers of Falak-ol-Aflak fortress on a dark hill against a lapis halo on clay, with a saffron ibex with great ridged horns standing on a finial in front, after the Luristan bronzes.

The people of the central Zagros

Lurs

Lurs speak Luri, a close cousin of Persian, in the valleys of Lorestan, Kohgiluyeh and the southern Zagros. Their country holds the Luristan bronzes, black tents and the old seasonal migration.

The Bakhtiari migration: a long thread of tiny white sheep, black goats and laden pack horses winding down from the snowfields of Zard Kuh and fording a turquoise river, under a saffron sun on lapis.

The great migration over the Zagros

Bakhtiari

The Bakhtiari cross the high Zagros twice a year with their flocks. They are famous for that migration, for their part in the Constitutional Revolution, and for rugs laid out like gardens.