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Persiahaus

Urartian citadel, 9th century BCE

Van Fortress

قلعه وان

The Urartian citadel of Tushpa, carved with an inscription of Xerxes

Van Fortress crowns a long limestone ridge on the eastern shore of Lake Van, just west of the city of Van in eastern Turkey. This was Tushpa, the capital of Urartu, the kingdom that rose in the highlands around the lake in the ninth century BCE and rivalled Assyria for two centuries. The oldest structure on the rock, a wall of huge stone blocks at its western foot, carries inscriptions of King Sarduri I, who founded the citadel in the second half of the ninth century BCE.

Urartian kings carved royal tombs into the rock, chambers cut deep into the cliff, and inscriptions recording their campaigns. After Urartu's fall, the region passed into the Iranian world: the highlands became part of the Median and then the Achaemenid empire, as the satrapy of Armenia. On the southern face of the rock, about twenty metres above the ground, is a smoothed panel bearing an inscription of Xerxes in three languages, Old Persian, Elamite and Babylonian. It records that his father, Darius, had ordered the niche cut but left it without writing, and that Xerxes had the inscription carved.

Over the following centuries the rock was held by Armenian kings, Arabs, Seljuks, Kurdish emirs, Safavids and Ottomans, who rebuilt its walls and added mosques and towers. At its southern foot lay the old walled city of Van, with its churches, mosques and markets, home to Armenians, Kurds and Turks. In 1915, during the First World War and the deportations and massacres of the Armenian population, the old city was destroyed. Today its site is an open field of ruins, and the fortress above is visited for its views over the lake.

Van Fortress through time

Iranian history

4000–539 BCE

Elam and the first citiesعیلام

Long before the Persians, the lowlands of Khuzestan and the highlands of Fars were home to Elam, a civilisation with its own language, gods and kings, centred on the city of Susa.

  • c. 840 BCE Approximate founding of Tushpa under Sarduri I
  • c. 480 BCE Xerxes' inscription carved on the rock of Van
  • 1915 The old city of Van destroyed during the First World War

More in Van and the Kurdish highlandsوان و کوهستان‌های کرد

Stories from the regionداستان‌ها

Two hands clasped in a covenant before a rayed saffron sun, over bands of flowing water, with a white star above, on lapis

Covenant, waters and victory

Mithra and the old Iranian gods

Before and beside Zarathushtra stood older Iranian divinities: Mithra of the covenant, Anahita of the waters, Verethragna of victory. Their names survive in hymns, festivals and children.

A Newroz night in the Zagros: snow-capped blue peaks under a pale moon, small bonfires on the ridges, and a great fire beside a line of tiny figures with linked hands in the circle dance, the leader raising a red handkerchief.

Mountain people of four states and many dialects

Kurds

Kurds live across the Zagros and Taurus in Iran, Iraq, Turkey and Syria. In Iran they speak several Kurdish languages, keep several faiths, and light Newroz fires that every Iranian knows.

Dark mountains with small fires on their slopes and saffron rings of song rising from the highest peak under a white moon, inside a pointed arch

Kurmanji, Sorani and Southern Kurdish

Kurdish

Spoken across the mountains where Iran, Iraq, Turkey and Syria meet, and far beyond, Kurdish is a family of closely related varieties with its own literature, written in more than one alphabet.